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Rethinking that second drink: Japan’s Gen Z gets ‘sober curious’

Her name may conjure images of boozy cherry blossom parties, but Hanami Ohashi hardly drinks.

The 25-year-old hairstylist in Daikanyama, a fashionable Tokyo neighborhood of boutiques and restaurants, says she’ll have one alcoholic drink a week at most. “If I’m meeting friends, I might have a beer — just one. More often, we end up at a cafe.”

Ohashi is not unusual in passing on a second round. She belongs to a generation drinking far less than their parents did, swept up in what’s been dubbed the “sober curious” movement. National surveys show that around 60% of people in their 20s consume little to no alcohol, a shift driven by heightened awareness of health risks, anxieties over the future after decades of economic stagnation, and an explosion in cheap, digital entertainment options like gaming, streaming services and social media.

“When I turned 20 (the legal drinking age in Japan), it was right in the middle of the pandemic, so there just weren’t any big parties,” Ohashi says. “There were the occasional drinks at home, but nothing like the large gatherings people used to have. I never really picked up the habit.”

​​That generational recalibration has not gone unnoticed by the drinks industry. Major brewers now market a growing range of zero- and low-alcohol products, while bars and restaurants experiment with mocktails and alcohol-free pairings. What was once a niche offering has become a fast-expanding category, signaling a shift in Japan’s drinking culture.

 

 

“I usually have about one can a day, and on days off when I meet friends, I might drink a little more,” says Kyoka Noguchi, Ohashi’s co-worker at the Daikanyama salon. “My parents go out drinking way more often than I do,” adds the 28-year-old, noting that she doesn’t know “anyone my age who goes out drinking specifically to meet new people.”

She shrugs: “People use apps for that now.”

Mis-nominication

For decades, drinking was woven into the fabric of Japanese social life. After long days at the office, colleagues crowded into smoky izakaya pubs, where beer and sake helped smooth over workplace hierarchies and foster a sense of belonging. The practice became so common that it inspired a new word: nominication, a mashup of nomi (drinking) and “communication.” Today, the ritual has lost much of its appeal.

“The decline in alcohol consumption among young people has been underway since the early 2000s,” says Naoko Kuga, a senior researcher at the NLI Research Institute.

With the economy in a prolonged slump since the asset price bubble popped in the early 1990s, men in particular began drinking less, and after-work gatherings among people in their 40s and 50s declined. In 2008, the government introduced a specific health checkup program targeting metabolic syndrome and other lifestyle-related diseases. Kuga says this further heightened health consciousness among working adults.

“Among younger generations, the shift was accelerated not only by the pandemic but also by the rapid spread of smartphones and social media from the 2010s onward,” she adds. As digital entertainment options multiplied, the perceived value of meeting up in person began to fade.

The idea of being sober curious — reassessing one’s relationship with alcohol without necessarily quitting — first appeared in the United States around 2018, she notes. The term began circulating in Japan about five years ago.

Beer Pub Ishii, a craft beer pub in Bunkyo Ward, offers Hitachino Brewing's 0.3% brew to customers looking for low-alcohol options. Beer Pub Ishii, a craft beer pub in Bunkyo Ward, offers Hitachino Brewing’s 0.3% brew to customers looking for low-alcohol options.| ALEX K.T. MARTIN
Small drinking establishments like this one in central Tokyo are ubiquitous throughout Japan, though drinking among men over the age of 40 has been on the decline since the 1990s.Small drinking establishments like this one in central Tokyo are ubiquitous throughout Japan, though drinking among men over the age of 40 has been on the decline since the 1990s.| JOHAN BROOKS
According to the National Tax Agency’s annual report on Japan’s alcohol industry, domestic sales peaked in 1996 and have been in steady decline ever since. Beer once dominated, accounting for more than 70% of total consumption through the mid-1990s. But tax changes in the early 2000s spurred a rise in happōshu (low-malt beer), and canned, liquor-based drinks have more recently gained ground, reflecting more diverse drinking habits.

When looking at habitual drinking, defined as consuming at least one (about 180 ml of sake, or its alcohol equivalent) per day on three or more days a week, Kuga points to data from the National Health and Nutrition Survey that show a clear decline.

Comparing figures from 1999, 2019, 2022 and 2023 (surveys in 2020 and 2021 were suspended during the pandemic), rates have fallen across all male age groups, as well as among women in their 20s and 30s, and those 70 and older. The most notable drop has been among men in their 40s and 50s, traditionally the heaviest drinkers, where habitual drinking rates have fallen by as much as 20 to 30 percentage points.

“Interestingly, we’re seeing a slight rise in habitual drinking among women in their 40s to 60s compared to the late 1990s,” Kuga says. “In fact, women in this age group now drink more regularly than men in their 20s.”

Part of the reason for these changes is that more women are in the workforce and have the same opportunities for work-related meals and gatherings as men, she adds. “And compared to the past, society is now far more accepting of women enjoying alcohol.”

Taichi Takata, who owns two restaurants and a bar in Tokyo’s Kagurazaka neighborhood, says his establishments stock nonalcoholic drinks in bottles, and that they sell reasonably well.

Though their cohort is more comfortable drinking in public, some women in the over-40 demographic are still content with a tea when they're out at the pub.Though their cohort is more comfortable drinking in public, some women in the over-40 demographic are still content with a tea when they’re out at the pub.| JOHAN BROOKS
“I’ve noticed more women and couples choosing soft drinks with their meals,” he says. “And among women in their 40s, 50s and 60s, drinking has definitely increased. I think it has to do with how there are fewer full-time housewives and more women making higher incomes. The spread of wine culture may have something to do with it, too. Women are more comfortable with drinking than before. A toast with sparkling wine is seen as stylish, and I think that matches their tastes now.”

At Takata’s restaurants, wine, beer and whiskey highballs still dominate sales. “As for younger people, so many are into anime, gaming or K-pop — that’s where they want to spend their money and time. They don’t really have space for drinking.”

With the diversification in drinking styles, beverage makers are trying out new slogans to entice customers. Asahi Breweries, for example, has rolled out a “Sumadori” (smart drinking) campaign that promotes a more flexible approach where people — whether drinkers or not — select beverages that match their health, mood and social setting.

Drinking smart?

In Shibuya’s narrow yet bustling Center Gai shopping and entertainment street stands the Sumadori Bar. Housed in a marbled rainbow-colored interior, its first floor features a long counter for customers looking for a quick drink, while the second floor offers sofas and table seating.

“We have drinks in three alcohol levels — 0%, 0.5% and 3%,” says Kimihisa Otsuka, the bartender and assistant manager, as he prepares one of the bar’s signature cocktails, the Marbling Rain. The drink comes topped with a pink-and-yellow cotton candy puff that dissolves as soda water is poured over a glass of house-made craft lemonade and nonalcoholic gin.

Sumadori Bar bartender and assistant manager Kimihisa Otsuka shows off his establishment's Marbling Rain cocktail. Sumadori Bar bartender and assistant manager Kimihisa Otsuka shows off his establishment’s Marbling Rain cocktail.| JOHAN BROOKS
Opened in June 2022, the idea for the bar grew out of a 2021 Asahi Breweries survey estimating that of Japan’s roughly 90 million adults, more than half — some 50 million people — don’t drink. The research also showed that many people, even the weak drinkers, still longed for aspects of bar and pub culture. With that in mind, Sumadori Bar set its sights on customers in their 20s, 30s and 40s who either abstain or drink very little.

“These days, about 70% of our customers are in their 20s,” says Mai Araki, brand manager at Sumadori, a joint venture between Asahi Breweries and Dentsu Digital. “Many come because our offerings are Instagrammable, and we’ve also intentionally kept prices low. For people who don’t usually drink, paying ¥1,000 for a cocktail can feel like too much of a hurdle, so we’ve made it easier to drop by with a one-coin (¥500) price point instead.”

Asahi’s latest figures show a clear shift in Japan’s drinking habits. While sales of its traditional beer products — including beer, happōshu and the nonmalt “new genre” brews — slipped 2% in the first half of 2025, sales of nonalcoholic beverages, including low-alcohol options, rose 15% year on year, while ready-to-drink products represented by chūhai canned cocktails surged 26% over the same period.

The company’s nonalcoholic beers are also setting records. Shipments of its flagship Dry Zero climbed 10% in 2024 to an all-time high, while sales of Asahi Zero have risen so quickly the company upped its 2025 target by 20% to 2.4 million cases. By the end of August, it had already cleared 1.6 million cases — 80% of its initial goal.

Sumadori Bar's Kimihisa Otsuka says his bar serves drinks with three alcohol levels: 0%, 0.5% and 3%. Sumadori Bar’s Kimihisa Otsuka says his bar serves drinks with three alcohol levels: 0%, 0.5% and 3%.| JOHAN BROOKS
“For younger generations, labeling something as nonalcoholic doesn’t really resonate, especially with those who don’t drink in the first place,” says Shiori Shimizu, a spokeswoman for Asahi Group Holdings, the parent company of Asahi Breweries. “Just putting ‘nonalcoholic’ on a product doesn’t make it appealing. On Sept. 17, we’re launching new products under our #sober (pronounced ‘tag sober’) brand, but instead of promoting them as nonalcoholic, we’re presenting them as a kind of ‘nighttime soda water.’”

Asahi isn’t alone. All of Japan’s major breweries have been investing in the nonalcoholic or low-alcohol beverage sector. Kirin Brewery, known for its namesake beer as well as its pioneering Hyoketsu brand of sweet, fruity canned cocktails, recently launched a new nonalcoholic chūhai brand called Hyo Zero Sparkling.

“Compared with when nonalcoholic beer first appeared in Japan, the taste has improved significantly,” says Susumu Yamanaka, brand manager at Kirin’s Marketing Division. “People in their 30s and 40s often remember the early versions and felt, ‘this isn’t real beer,’ which left a negative impression. Younger generations don’t carry that same bias.”

By their 40s, many people lean toward traditional drinks like sake or shochu, Yamanaka says. In their 50s, long-time drinkers often settle on the brands and types they prefer, while older consumers begin cutting back, shifting toward low- or nonalcoholic options.

While they're increasingly opting for nonalcoholic options, young people still enjoy hanging out at bars and While they’re increasingly opting for nonalcoholic options, young people still enjoy hanging out at bars and “izakaya” taverns, like those near Ueno Station.| JOHAN BROOKS
“Today, the 50-to-60 age range represents the largest market for nonalcoholic beverages,” he says. Health concerns and the occasional warnings that result from yearly health checks all play a role. “For younger people, meanwhile, a soft drink — or even staying at home scrolling on a smartphone — can be just as satisfying.”

After spending her summer working in Tokushima Prefecture, Sumire Higa, 23, is heading back to Okinawa. While there, she expects she’ll be invited to join her father for drinks.

“I’m not great with alcohol,” she says. “When I was 20, I thought I should drink since my father does, but I realized I can enjoy myself without it.”

Now when she drinks with dad, she cracks open a can of Suntory’s nonalcoholic All-Free brew. Does the lack of a buzz lessen the experience?

“No,” she says with a laugh, “I don’t miss it at all.”

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Experience the Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana Area: A Floral Wonderland for Unforgettable Moments[PR]| JAPAN Monthly Web Magazine

Shizuoka Prefecture, located in central Honshu between Tokyo and Nagoya, is a region rich in natural beauty. To its east stands Japan’s highest peak, Mount Fuji, while the Pacific Ocean stretches to its south. In the Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana area, the Hamanako Flower Festival is held every spring, offering visitors a chance to admire the vibrant flowers. The area also features attractions the whole family can enjoy, including a resort-style amusement park and a scenic ropeway that crosses the lake. It is even celebrated as a “destination where you can show your parents just how much you appreciate them.” Join us as we uncover the many charms of the Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana area, an ideal spot for making lasting memories.

Hamanako Flower Festival: A Celebration of Seasonal Blooms

With its abundant sunshine and mild climate, the Lake Hamana area in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, is a haven for vibrant seasonal flowers. From March to June, the annual Hamanako Flower Festival brings the landscape to life, celebrating the beauty of nature in full bloom.

With the catchphrase “Spring in Japan begins at Lake Hamana,” the festival takes place at two main venues: Hamamatsu Flower Park and Hamanako Garden Park. The event offers a stunning relay-style display of flowers that bloom throughout each season, including Japan’s iconic cherry blossoms, tulips, nemophila, wisteria, and roses, attracting flower lovers from near and far.

Hamanako Flower Festival

Enjoy Seasonal Flowers at Hamamatsu Flower Park

Hamamatsu Flower Park, one of the main venues of the Hamanako Flower Festival, is a sprawling botanical garden covering 300,000 square meters. Home to around 3,000 plant species, it boasts breathtaking floral displays throughout the year.

Rose Garden, Hamamatsu Flower Park

From mid-March to mid-April during the flower festival, the Tulip and Cherry Blossom Garden reaches its peak, with 1,300 cherry blossom trees and 500,000 tulips blooming simultaneously. This is the only garden in Japan where you can witness such a large-scale display of cherry blossoms and tulips.

As spring transitions to early summer in late April to early May, the 170-meter-long Wisteria Corridor becomes a mesmerizing sight, especially when illuminated at night. In June, hydrangeas in shades of white, blue, and purple brighten the rainy season. The park also features a large greenhouse called the Crystal Palace, dynamic fountain shows synchronized with music, and the Flower Train bus, which offers a scenic ride through the park—making it a perfect destination for families.

Flower Train Bus at Hamamatsu Flower Park

Spectacular Flower Festival Scenes at Hamanako Garden Park

Hamanako Garden Park, the other main venue of the Hamanako Flower Festival, is a vast green space spanning approximately 56 hectares, offering expansive views of the natural beauty and open spaces of Lake Hamana.

From late March to mid-April, 10,000 tulips in 100 varieties blossom in striking colors, heralding the arrival of spring. Then, from mid to late April, around 300,000 nemophila flowers bloom to create an unforgettable sight, transforming the landscape into a vast blue carpet. The park also features a 50-meter-high observation tower, showcasing panoramic views of the entire garden park and Lake Hamana.

The Flower Garden, Hamanako Garden Park

Flower Museum, Hamanako Garden Park

Visitors can also discover rare flowers, such as the evergreen witchhazel, which blooms in April in Kosai City, adjacent to Hamamatsu. Found in only three locations in Japan, its delicate ribbon-like petals make it especially captivating. Another rarity is the shibukawa tsutsuji (jingu tsutsuji, Rhododendron sanctum), which blooms in May in Mikawa, parts of Mie Prefecture, and Hamamatsu. This rare flower thrives only in serpentine rock areas.

Evergreen Witchhazel

Jingu Tsutsuji (Rhododendron Sanctum)

Ryotanji Temple: A Legacy of 1,300 Years

According to temple records, Ryotanji Temple was founded by the priest Gyoki during the Nara period (710–794). From the Heian period (794-1185), it is said to have become the family temple of the Ii clan, a samurai lineage. The temple’s garden, designed by Kobori Enshu—a feudal lord and garden designer of the Edo period (1603–1867)—has been designated a national place of scenic beauty. It features numerous stone arrangements and artificial hills that depict cranes and turtles.
Ryotanji Temple also hosts seasonal flower events, including the Flower Festival in early April and the Satsuki(azalea) Festival from late April to May.

Ryotanji Temple

Ryotanji Garden by Enshu Kobori

Hamanako PalPal: A Resort-Style Amusement Park by the Lake

Located on the shores of Lake Hamana, Hamanako PalPal is a resort-style amusement park featuring around 30 attractions suited for all ages, from young children to adults. With a mix of fairy-tale-themed rides and thrilling extreme attractions, it’s a top destination for families and couples alike.

For an even more memorable experience, pair your visit with a ride on the Kanzanji Ropeway next door. Together, they offer a fun-filled way to take in the beauty of Lake Hamana.

Kanzanji Ropeway: Japan’s Only Ropeway Crossing a Lake

The Kanzanji Ropeway is the only ropeway in Japan that crosses a lake, traversing 723 meters in just four minutes. Below, the picturesque Lake Hamana stretches between the cities of Hamamatsu and Kosai in western Shizuoka Prefecture. The ropeway connects the Hamanako PalPal amusement park to the summit of Mount Okusa, offering a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view throughout the ride.

At the summit of Mount Okusa sits the Hamanako Orgel Museum, home to a collection of valuable music boxes. Visitors can admire the intricate displays and enjoy the enchanting sounds. From the observation deck, you can take in sweeping views of Lake Hamana and the Pacific Ocean—and on clear days, even Mount Fuji. The scenery transforms with the seasons and time of day, offering plenty of dynamic sights.

Hotel Wellseason Hamanako: Savor Local Flavors and Relax in Hot Springs

Located in the Kanzanji Onsen hot spring area, Hotel Wellseason Hamanako is a family-friendly resort facility designed to accommodate guests with babies and small children, ensuring a stress-free stay.

The hotel is directly connected to Hamanako PalPal, and guests enjoy free admission to the amusement park. For relaxation, hotel guests have exclusive access to the open-air bath Hitotoki no Yu, or can unwind at the adjacent Hanasaki no Yu.
The buffet-style meals highlight local specialties, including Lake Hamana’s famous unagi (eel), premium Mikkabi-brand Japanese beef, and Hamamatsu gyoza. These flavors are beloved by both visitors and locals alike.

How to get there

Hamamatsu is easily accessible from Tokyo or Osaka in about 90 minutes via the Shinkansen bullet train. For those traveling by air, Chubu Centrair International Airport is a convenient option. From Nagoya, the Shinkansen bullet train is a hassle-free way to reach Hamamatsu in just 30 minutes. Once at Hamamatsu Station, the Lake Hamana area is about a 50-minute bus ride away.

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Celebrate 30 Years of Indo-Japan Friendship at the Hyderabad Japan Festival 2025 This Weekend!

This weekend, Hyderabad will play host to a slice of Japan. The 30th annual Hyderabad-Japan Festival returns to the city on October 25 and 26, 2025, at the State Art Gallery, Madhapur. Entry is free and open to all. Expect Japanese martial arts demonstrations, folk dances, and live music bands in the Japanese tradition.

There will also be Kuchipudi performances, live demos of Ikebana (the art of flower arrangement), Bonsai, Sumie (Japanese ink painting), and Origami (the art of paper sculpting). Visitors can try their hand at the crafts while learning directly from experts. Exhibitions and workshops featuring calligraphy and painting to photography and design of both cultures.

The event is organized by Na Ra JAPAN HUB, an initiative of the Naga Rama Trust, founded by Dr. B. Ramabhadra and Mrs. Naganath. Having spent nearly two decades in Japan, the couple began this festival three decades ago to foster cultural understanding between India and Japan. What started as a modest gathering has now become one of Hyderabad’s most anticipated annual events.

Talks and Exchanges

The Hyderabad-Japan Festival has always been about learning what makes Japan’s culture, education, and lifestyle so admired around the world, and finding how it connects with Indian values. This year, there will be special sessions and talks on:

  1. The Japanese language and learning pathways for students in India
  2. Education and career opportunities in Japan
  3. Indo-Japan relations and city-level collaborations like that between Hyderabad and Hamamatsu City
  4. Insights into Japan’s productivity methods, work ethics, and the globally loved Ikigai philosophy

These sessions will help students, entrepreneurs, and professionals understand how collaboration between the two nations is growing in education, business, and culture.

The festival has strong institutional support from:

  • Consulate-General of Japan in Chennai
  • Japan Foundation, New Delhi
  • JETRO (Japan External Trade Organization), New Delhi
  • Hyderabad Japanese Association

What To Expect

Japanese art groups like the Ohara School of Ikebana (Hyderabad), Golden Dragons, and several individual masters of Bonsai, Origami, and Sumie will showcase their skills. School students will participate in Origami, Painting, and Japanese Speech contests. Winners will be recognized during the festival. Adding to the festival’s significance, several dignitaries and cultural leaders will be in attendance. Among them are: Kenji Miyata, Acting Consul General of Japan, Chennai; Koji Sato, Director General, Japan Foundation, New Delhi; Takeshi Suzuki, Director General, JETRO, New Delhi; Collector Smt. Harichandana, IAS; Former DGP Sri SK Jayachandra, IPS (Retd.). They will be joined by artists, educators, business leaders, and enthusiasts from both countries.

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Explore the Real Places Behind Shōgun and More! Literary-inspired Travel in Japan

 

The 1975 historical novel Shōgun by James Clavell, on which the 2024 TV series of the same name is based, is a work of fiction that includes real historical persons and events. Although his name has been changed in the novel, an Englishman really did sail to 16th-century Japan and become a samurai in the service of a warlord who was intent on becoming Shogun, the country’s military governor. Not only that, but all the locales mentioned in the book are real places, and fans of the story can go there today and discover a side of Japan that they’ve most likely only read about. In this article, we’ll introduce a fascinating itinerary that will take you through the world of Shōgun and beyond.

Did Shōgun Happen at Osaka Castle? A Look at the Facts and History

In Clavell’s novel, Osaka Castle features prominently as the iconic backdrop for the political turmoil that followed the death of the fortification’s previous lord, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (the Taiko: his title in later life and his character’s title in the fictional retelling.) Beyond the book, Osaka Castle dates back to 1583, and it served as Toyotomi’s seat of power when he attempted to unify a fractured Japan after the emperor and the shogun lost political power in the 15th century. The taking of Osaka Castle was instrumental in Tokugawa Ieyasu (the fictional Toranaga Yoshii in the book) consolidating power and ultimately ending nearly 200 years of civil war.

Osaka Castle illuminated at night

Today, Osaka Castle remains one of the most iconic historical destinations in Japan. The castle with its surrounding 106-hectare park offers visitors an immersive cultural experience that includes the pleasures of Japan’s four seasons (with cherry blossoms in spring and colorful foliage in autumn), traditional architecture, and curated exhibitions. Some of the castle turrets are original structures dating back hundreds of years, while the main keep is a reconstruction from 1931 and a Registered Tangible Cultural Property that today functions as a museum. Displays highlight the political, military, and architectural history of the region.

The Izu Peninsula and the First European Samurai

The rugged cliffs of Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture

In Shōgun, Englishman John Blackthorne (based on the historical figure William Adams) arrives in Japan at the fictional Anjiro, based on the real-life Ajiro, a village on the eastern coast of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture. Adams actually arrived in Japan on the island of Kyushu, over 850 kilometers away, but Izu’s proximity to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) made it a more convenient setting for the book’s narrative. Being able to walk in Blackthorne’s footsteps is not the only reason to visit the peninsula, though.

Aerial View of Mt. Omuro

The Izu Peninsula, located forty minutes from Tokyo on the Shinkansen bullet train, is a UNESCO Global Geopark where visitors can explore many natural and cultural attractions like  Mt. Omuro and the Hakone Hachiri section of the old Tokaido highway, which once connected Edo and Kyoto. Coastal towns in Izu are famous for their onsen (hot springs), fresh seafood, and panoramic views of Mt. Fuji. Inland areas are rich in nature with scenic hiking trails lined with cedars, which were planted around the time William Adams lived in Japan.

The Historic Battlefield of Sekigahara Shaped Shogun-Era Japan

Site of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s First Encampment (Momokubariyama) at the Sekigahara battlefield

The Shōgun narrative ends after the Battle of Sekigahara, during which Toranaga (the real-life Tokugawa Ieyasu) defeated his archnemesis Ishido (the real-life warlord Ishida Mitsunari) and cemented his rule over Japan. Fought on October 21, 1600, in present-day Gifu Prefecture, the actual battle between Ieyasu and clans loyal to the Toyotomi was the largest in the history of feudal Japan

The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum recreates the greatest battle in Japanese history

Today, Sekigahara is a tranquil town that preserves the legacy of this decisive clash. A large portion of the battlefield has walkable routes that take visitors through preserved encampment sites enhanced with immersive displays. In addition, the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum provides multilingual exhibitions that highlight the importance of the battle in the broader context of Japan’s political history.

Journey into Japanese Literature

Tokushima Awa Odori, where the tradition began – Koenji’s version carries on the spirit.

Fans of Japanese literature fortunately have more destinations to explore than just those connected to Shōgun. In Haruki Murakami’s novel 1Q84 (2009), the Tokyo neighborhood of Koenji serves as an important spot from which the main characters navigate a parallel existence. Real-life Koenji is known for its underground, bohemian culture, vintage shops, live-music venues, and lively bar scene. It’s also where the dance festival Koenji Awa Odori takes place. Held since 1957 on the last weekend of August, it attracts over a million visitors annually and involves 12,000 dancers. Outside of big celebrations, Koenji is a great place to find authentic Japanese street culture and to shop for unique fashion.

Maiko (apprentice geisha) in Gion, Kyoto

A completely different atmosphere can be found in the Gion district of Kyoto, the primary setting for Arthur Golden’s Memoirs of a Geisha (1997). Taking place in the early 20th century, this novel highlights Gion’s traditional geisha teahouses and the neighborhood’s historic significance. Established during the late 14th century around Yasaka-jinja Shrine, Gion remains a center for Japan’s traditional arts, including dance, music, and tea ceremony. Visitors can wander along cobblestone streets, attend geisha performances, and discover historic architecture like Kennin-ji temple, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, dating back to 1202 and located just south of Gion.

An Itinerary in Every Book

View of Yuigahama Beach, Kamakura

Natsume Soseki’s novel Kokoro (1914) is a psychological examination of modernity and human relationships, and it has come to inspire readers to visit Kamakura City, in Kanagawa Prefecture, where one of the main characters famously enjoys swimming. These visitors might be interested in Kamakura’s Yuigahama Beach, a popular leisure destination that attracts tourists and locals alike. Kamakura is the old samurai capital of Japan, full of tangible history like the Great Buddha of Kamakura, a National Treasure dating back to 1252.

Every story set in Japan can lead to a new adventure. A visit to any place becomes much more meaningful if that place is the setting of a favorite book.

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Experience Japanese Culture in Oita Prefecture, Home to Japan’s Largest Hot Spring Flow

 

Located in the northeastern part of Kyushu and bordering Fukuoka Prefecture, Oita is Japan’s celebrated “Hot Spring Prefecture.” It ranks number one in both the number of hot spring sources, with 5,090 out of Japan’s 28,000, and in flow rate, with an average of 295,708 liters per minute. Oita is also a treasure trove of gourmet food, offering an abundance of fresh seafood from its coastal areas and bountiful mountain produce from its inland regions, where majestic peaks and crystal-clear water sources abound.

Oita offers a chance to experience the essence of traditional Japanese resort life, where visitors can relax in the natural beauty and healing power of its hot springs while savoring its exquisite cuisine. Moreover, Oita offers unique hot spring experiences that you won’t find anywhere else. Why not explore something new and experience the deep-rooted hot spring culture of Oita Prefecture? In this article, we’ll introduce two of its most famous hot spring regions: Beppu and Yufuin.

Beppu: A Hot Spring Paradise Gaining Global Attention

Beppu, one of Japan’s premier hot spring destinations, is often called the “Hot Spring Capital” and boasts the highest number of hot springs and the largest volume of hot spring water in Oita Prefecture. The entire town is enveloped in geothermal activity, with steam rising from hot springs throughout the area, creating a truly atmospheric welcome for visitors. Beppu is home to numerous hot spring areas, with the eight most iconic ones collectively known as Beppu Hattou, or the Eight Hot Spring Districts of Beppu. One of Beppu’s greatest charms is the sheer variety of hot spring experiences it offers.

Steam rising from various spots throughout the city of Beppu

Hells of Beppu

A must-see attraction in Beppu is the Hells of Beppu, a tour that takes you around seven unique “jigoku”, or “hells”—hot spring vents formed by the sheer power of nature. The landscapes are otherworldly, unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere.

Among the seven hells, the Umi (sea) Jigoku captivates visitors with its striking cobalt-blue hot spring water, while the Chinoike (blood lake) Jigoku features vibrant red-hued hot mud. However, this isn’t just a collection of photogenic sights—it’s an immersive experience that lets you feel the mystery of Earth firsthand.

Nationally Designated Place of Scenic Beauty: Umi Jigoku

Nationally Designated Place of Scenic Beauty: Chinoike Jigoku

Kannawa Onsen and Geothermal Cuisine (Jigoku-Mushi)

Kannawa Onsen is a district in Beppu where an especially large amount of steam rises from the ground, creating a landscape that epitomizes a true “hot spring town.” The area has long prospered as a hot spring retreat, with numerous hotels and “ryokan” inns still standing today, making it an ideal place to fully relax and immerse yourself in the ultimate hot spring experience.

Hot spring steam rising from Kannawa Onsen

At Kannawa Onsen, don’t miss the traditional culinary experience of “Jigoku-Mushi”, or hot spring steam cooking. This method uses geothermal steam to cook ingredients without oil, preserving their nutrients. Due to the fact that it’s a simple, oil-free cooking technique, “Jigoku-Mushi” is especially popular among vegans and health-conscious diners.

Geothermal cooking: “Jigoku-Mushi”

The restaurant Otto e Sette Oita has given traditional “Jigoku-Mushi” a modern twist. In addition to steam-cooked dishes, it offers “Onsen Italian” cuisine, which incorporates hot spring water in the cooking process.
Pasta is boiled using hot spring water instead of “dashi” (stock), sauces are simmered with geothermal heat, and fruits and vegetables are naturally ripened and fermented. Owner-chef Tetsuya Kakehashi presents this as a new evolution of hot spring culture. Indulge in dishes like hot spring-boiled pasta, beef cooked in geothermal steam, and seasonal fish prepared in the same way—all available as part of multi-course menus for both lunch and dinner.

Pasta cooked in hot spring water

Vegetables simmered in hot spring water

Vegetables steamed in a “Jigoku-Mushi” cauldron with geothermal vapor

A sample lunch course menu

“Jigoku-Mushi” cauldrons

Steaming basket used for “Jigoku-Mushi”

Unique Hot Spring Experiences

A visit to Beppu wouldn’t be complete without experiencing its diverse hot springs. One such experience can be had at Kannawa Mushiyu (Kannawa Steam Bath), which has a history of over 700 years. Inside a stone chamber resembling a sauna, the floor is layered with the medicinal herb Sekisho (Japanese sweet flag), while geothermal steam gently warms the body. This traditional hot spring therapy promotes perspiration in a high-humidity environment, providing relaxing and detoxifying benefits.

Another unique experience is the sand bath, a traditional bathing method where the body is buried in geothermally heated sand, allowing its warmth to penetrate deeply. The sand, nourished by mineral-rich spring water, envelops the body to promote sweating, relaxation, and detoxification. Hyotan Onsen Hot Springs is one of the facilities where visitors can enjoy this therapeutic bathing method, along with open-air baths, waterfall baths, steam baths, and private family baths for a complete hot spring session.
For those looking to combine skincare with relaxation, mud baths—a bathing method using hot spring mud—provide the perfect option. The mineral-rich mud and hot-spring components help smooth the skin, improve circulation, and detoxify the body. At Beppu Onsen Hoyoland, guests can enjoy mud baths in an open-air setting surrounded by nature, allowing them to experience the benefits of Beppu’s geothermal wonders.

Kannawa Mushiyu (Kannawa Steam Bath)

Sand bath at Hyotan Onsen Hot Springs

Beppu Onsen Hoyoland’s mud baths

Yufuin: A Hot Spring Retreat where Healing and Art Converge

Yufuin is a picturesque and tranquil hot spring retreat nestled near the center of Oita Prefecture. Spreading out at the foot of the majestic Mount Yufu, this hot spring destination offers a serene contrast to the lively atmosphere of Beppu, allowing visitors to unwind in a peaceful natural setting.
During the tourism development of the 1970s, Yufuin was inspired by the German spa town of Badenweiler, shaping a setting where nature, hot springs, and art harmoniously coexist. Even today, the area retains a distinct European charm, with art museums, cafes, and galleries scattered throughout the town.

The tranquil landscape of Yufuin with Mount Yufu in the background

Lake Kinrin

Lake Kinrin offers a breathtaking, almost dreamlike scenery. Fed by hot spring water, the lake maintains a relatively high temperature, causing mist to rise from its surface in the early mornings, especially during the colder months. Visitors are invited to take a leisurely stroll along the shore and immerse themselves in this enchanting scene.

Morning mist over Lake Kinrin—its appearance changing with the day

Hiking Mount Yufu and Cycling the Yamanami Highway

For those seeking an active experience, hiking up Mount Yufu is recommended. As the symbol of Yufuin, this beautiful 1,583-meter peak offers well-maintained trails suitable even for beginners. From the summit, hikers are rewarded with incredible views of the Yufuin townscape and surrounding mountains.

Mount Yufu

Cycling along the Yamanami Highway is also a must-try, especially as it serves as the main trailhead for climbing Mount Yufu. Even for those who aren’t avid cyclists, the experience proves irresistible, riding through the wind while taking in views of the majestic mountain. It is possible to rent bicycles in Yufuin, but for an even better experience, head to Yamanami Rental Cycle in Kokonoe Town, where you can cycle through beautiful scenery that stretches all the way to the Aso area.

Mount Yufu as seen from the Yamanami Highway

Yamanami Highway at Kokonoe Town

Yufugawa Gorge Packrafting Tour

Yufugawa Gorge offers magnificent natural beauty, with a mysterious landscape shaped over countless years. Why not embark on an adventurous tour using a lightweight rubber boat to explore deep, uncharted parts of the gorge? There, you’ll encounter views unlike any other, including beautifully sculpted rock walls and countless waterfalls cascading like threads from the cliff faces.

A Fulfilling Experience Spent Savoring the Town’s Natural Beauty

A stay in Yufuin offers the perfect opportunity to unwind and be healed by its hot springs. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the town and watched over by Mount Yufu, visitors to the town can tour art museums or take leisurely strolls through the picturesque satoyama – a traditional rural landscape where nature and human habitation coexist in harmony. This leisurely time will leave you feeling recharged, body and soul.
At the COMICO ART MUSEUM YUFUIN, enjoy modern art within a sophisticated space designed by Kengo Kuma. Meanwhile, visiting Unagihime Shrine, which dates back to the 9th century, or Ogosha Shrine, home to a giant cedar tree over a thousand years old, offers a chance to connect with Japan’s spiritual culture. The mystical atmosphere of these ancient sites reflects the thoughts and traditions of the locals which have been preserved for centuries.

COMICO ART MUSEUM YUFUIN, designed by Kengo Kuma

© Yoshitomo Nara 2017

Looking out at Yoshitomo Nara’s artwork, “Your Dog”

Unagihime Shrine

Ogosha Shrine

The giant cedar tree at Ogosha Shrine, over a thousand years old

ENOWA YUFUIN: Savoring the Luxury of Farm-to-Table Cuisine and Hot Spring Culture

For the Japanese, hot springs are special spaces for healing both body and soul. Historically, hot springs were used for long-term stays focused on recovery, often referred to as “hot-spring therapy.” In recent years, the trend has shifted toward enjoying hot springs while staying at a ryokan inn and indulging in gourmet delights, leading to the rise of luxury hot spring resorts.

ENOWA YUFUIN stands out by offering a luxurious retreat where guests can savor the finest cuisine crafted from fresh vegetables grown on its own farm. Nestled in the abundant natural beauty of Yufuin, this auberge offers guests the opportunity to reconnect with nature and rediscover their true selves amidst expansive grounds.
Embracing the farm-driven philosophy of “the menu for the day is decided by the farm,” each dish celebrates the vitality of nature for guests to enjoy. The robust flavors of the ingredients, nurtured from the soil up, will leave a lasting impression on your journey.

All guest rooms are equipped with open-air baths filled with natural hot spring water, allowing guests to immerse themselves in the healing waters of Yufuin in the privacy of their own space. The premium suite, with its picturesque view framed by an infinity pool, offers a one-of-a-kind escape.

Why not take your Japanese hot spring experience to the next level? Awaken all your senses as you embrace the mineral-rich earth and the natural blessings of Yufuin through its hot springs and cuisine.

The entrance to ENOWA YUFUIN, an auberge nestled in nature

A fertile field cultivated from the soil up, with Mount Yufu in the background

Dishes brimming with vitality, nurtured by the power of the earth

HILL TOP SKY PAVILION, a premium suite featuring an infinity pool

How to get there

Oita Prefecture is easily accessible from Fukuoka, taking about two hours on the Sonic Limited Express train from JR Hakata Station. It can also be conveniently reached from areas like Osaka and Kyoto by plane or Shinkansen. Additionally, the Sunflower ferry connects Osaka with Beppu and Kobe with Oita, offering a one-night boat trip as part of the journey.

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